Dermaplaning: What It Does, What It Doesn’t, and the Myths to Retire

If you’ve ever watched a dermaplaning video and thought, “Wait, they’re shaving their face? Won’t it all grow back darker?”, you’re not alone. Dermaplaning can leave skin feeling incredibly smooth, but it’s also surrounded by myths, so let’s break down what it actually does, what the research can and can’t tell us, and how to decide whether it’s right for you.

What Dermaplaning Is

Dermaplaning is a manual exfoliation technique. A sterile, single-use blade is held at a low angle and stroked gently across clean, dry, taut skin. In one pass it does two things: it lifts away loosely attached dead cells from the very top of the skin, and it removes the fine, soft “peach fuzz” hair on the face, known as vellus hair.

It is not the same as dermabrasion, which is a medical resurfacing procedure that goes much deeper. Dermaplaning works only at the surface, which is why a professional treatment usually has no real downtime.

Why It Works the Way It Does

The outermost layer of your skin, the stratum corneum, is made of flattened cells that are constantly being shed and replaced. When dead cells pile up, skin can look dull and feel rough, and makeup can cling to dry patches. Gently removing that buildup lets light reflect more evenly, which is where the “glow” comes from.

A quick nerd note: the stratum corneum on your cheek is thin, averaging only around ten cell layers, compared with closer to eighteen on your legs. That’s a big reason facial skin is more delicate than body skin, and it’s exactly why technique matters. A 2023 lab study in AAPS PharmSciTech looked at dermaplaned human skin under the microscope and found the blade removed the stratum corneum and even some of the living epidermis beneath it, with a measurable drop in barrier function. That study was done on donor skin, not on people in a treatment room, but it explains why your esthetician will ask you to go easy on strong actives afterward: products really do sink in more readily for a little while.

What the Research Shows

I want to be honest here: dermaplaning is popular, but it hasn’t been studied much. A systematic review in Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (2011) described the scientific support for dermaplaning as scarce and largely anecdotal, even though clients and practitioners tend to be happy with it.

The hair-regrowth question, on the other hand, has decent evidence behind it. Studies on shaving going back to 1928, and a well-known 1970 study in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, found that shaving does not change hair thickness, color or how fast it grows. Those studies looked at beards and legs rather than facial peach fuzz, but cutting a hair at the surface simply can’t reach the follicle, where growth is controlled.

Who It May Suit (and Who Should Wait)

Dull, dry or rough skin: people who want brighter, smoother-feeling skin and a better canvas for makeup.
Visible peach fuzz: anyone whose vellus hair catches powder or foundation.
Those who can’t use some chemical exfoliants: it can be an option when certain acids aren’t a good fit, though it should be discussed with your provider, especially if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.

Hold off or talk to a professional first if you have:

Active acne breakouts: a blade passing over inflamed spots can spread bacteria and irritate them.
Flaring skin conditions: eczema, psoriasis, rosacea flares, contact dermatitis, cold sores or a sunburn in the area.
Raised moles, skin tags or lesions: these need to be avoided, and any spot that’s new or changing belongs with a dermatologist.
Recent strong treatments or prescription retinoids: peels, lasers, microneedling or isotretinoin can make the skin far too fragile.
A tendency toward dark marks: post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can happen in anyone but is more common and longer-lasting in deeper skin tones. Dermaplaning can still be done safely, with a light hand and careful aftercare.
Coarse, curly facial hair: shaving this hair type can lead to ingrown hairs and razor bumps, so a different hair-removal approach may be better.

One more important note: if you notice new, dark or coarse facial hair appearing suddenly, especially with irregular periods or new acne, please see a physician. That can be a sign of a hormonal issue worth checking.

What to Expect (and Professional vs. At-Home)

In the treatment room, your skin is cleansed and thoroughly dried, held taut, and treated with short, feather-light strokes. It shouldn’t hurt. Most people look a little pink, if anything, and can go about their day.

At-home tools are gentler, but the same rules apply: a fresh, clean blade, clean and dry skin, a low angle, light pressure, and never going over the same spot repeatedly. Dermatologists generally suggest not doing it more than about once a week so skin can recover. Professional dermaplaning is usually spaced around three to four weeks apart, roughly in step with your skin’s natural renewal.

Aftercare Matters

Keep it simple for a day or two: a gentle cleanser and a calm, hydrating moisturizer. Pause retinoids, acids and scrubs for the time your provider recommends.
Wear sunscreen and reapply: freshly exfoliated skin is more vulnerable to UV, and here in Utah, our altitude and strong sun make that especially important, even in fall and winter.
Support your barrier: our dry air can make newly exfoliated skin feel tight, so a richer moisturizer at night can help.
Call your provider if you see bumps, persistent redness, cuts that won’t heal or signs of infection.

Common Myths

“My hair will grow back thicker and darker.” It won’t. Cut hairs have a blunt tip instead of a tapered one, so regrowth can feel a little stubbly at first, but thickness, color and growth rate don’t change.
“More often means better results.” Over-exfoliating thins out your protective layer and can lead to irritation, sensitivity and breakouts.
“It’s only for fair skin.” All skin tones can benefit; the plan simply needs to protect against dark marks.

The Takeaway

Dermaplaning is a simple, low-downtime way to smooth and brighten skin and remove peach fuzz, and it won’t make your hair grow back thicker. The research on its skin benefits is still thin, so think of it as a nice surface treatment rather than a cure-all. Start with a consultation, skip it when skin is broken out or irritated, and treat sunscreen as part of the service.

Sources

Further reading: Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures, edited by Zoe Diana Draelos; Taylor and Kelly’s Dermatology for Skin of Color, edited by A. Paul Kelly and Susan C. Taylor.

This lesson is for general education and is not a substitute for a personalized consultation with a licensed skin professional or a medical provider.

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